Sewing machine



July :10, 1923. I

M. McCANN SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 23, 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet l 43ATTGBNEY" V July 10, 1923.

M CANN SEWINE MACHINE Filed Sept.-23, 1919 9 .SheetsSheet 2 WITNESSES: k

M. M CANN SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 23, 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 5 July 10,1923.

M. M CANN SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 23, 1919 9 Shets-Shet 4 INVENTOR.Mh'GW jzfly w, 1923.

NL, M 'CANN SEWING MACHINE Filed Sepi.

9 Sheets-Sheet 5 ATT' RN Y Jufiy 10, 1923. 3,4814% M. MOCANN sE-wmg;MACHINE Fil d Sept. 25, 1919 9 SheetsSheet 6 r WITNESSESz' m m, 1923; vixsmxirza M. M CANN SEWING MACHINE Filed 'Sept. 23 1919 9 Sheets-Sheet 7wmwass. i19

INVENTOR.

MM%Q@QZ 9 Sheets-Sheet 8 m A51; ATTGRNEY M M CANN SEWING MACHINE Fi ledSpt 23 July 16, 1923 MCCANN SEWING MACHINE ATTORNEY INVENTOR to FFederated duly lil. "3152323.

Eidflihfil l', UF GLEHB$GERIS, NEW 30331, AESIGNOR T FEEDER-ICE OSAFIN ISGEEPAEJY, 0F YORK, 3T. 2.,

sawruc mecmrrs.

d iplicettoa filed epteniber 23, 191%. Serial Eo. $25,719.

To all whom it mayconcem: Y

-Be it knownthet LIMIOHAEn MOGANN, a citizen of the United States ofAmerica, residing in Glenmorris, L. Lin the county of Queens and Stateof New York, have invented certain new and useful. Improvements inSewing; Machines, of which the following is atrue and exact description,reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form a partthereof.

My invention relates to sewing machines, and particularly to machinesadupted'to make a zig zag stitch, and my machine is especially designedto form button holes, though in its broader features my invention iscapable of other useful applications. With reference to my machine as aWhole, it is aligned to form a button hole having two rows of zig zagstitches simultaneously formed, and, preferably, form'edover twoparallel rows of padding stitches and'to form a series of bar stitchesat each end of the button hole, and in designing my mm chine I have hadespecially in view accuracy and rapidity of action and the formation ofa button hole in less time than has heretofore been required for suchwork.

My machine is primarily intended to form a button hole the sides ofwhich are formed of zit, zag chain stitches. but it is capable. withslight modification, of forminc; the button hole with two'thread lockstitches on each side.

My invention consists of various novel combinations of mechanisrnwhichwill be best understood as described in connectionwith the drawings inwhich they are illustrated and which will be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings: I f Figure 1 isa side elevation. of .my new chine withthe side plates ofthe upperarm and head removed and the side ofthe lowercasing cut away. Figure 2 is a 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Figure 3 is a front elevation on line 3-3 of Fig. 1.

Figure 4 is an elevation .on line 4-4 of ig. 1.

Figure 5 is an elevation oil line 5-5 of F ig.

particularly plan view on section line Figure an elevation on line 6-43of Fig. 1.

v tion 'p'f the ziga I Figure 7 is an elevation on line 7-7 of F ig. 9.t Figure 8 is a side view of-the lever partly cut away to show the. stopdisc behind it, the view being taken as on line 8-8 of Fig. 2. i

Figure 9 is a plan view taken as on line .3-4) of Fig. 7.

Figure lflis a sectional view taken as on line 10--10 of Fig.11,};fshrwving the adjustable eccentric and.carii .fil "on shaft D.

Figure 11 is a front view taken on line 11-11 of Fig. 10. f

Figure 12 is a plan view on an enlarged scale, showing the cloth clampand the slide to which it is attached.

Figure 13 is a side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 12 of the headof the machine and of the cam D", (i

Figure 14 is a front view of the head.

Figure 15 is a plan view of the head and actuating lever M Figure 18 isa side view of the lever.

Figure 19 is a front view of the clutch lever IVE.

Figure 20 is a sideview of the lever.

Figure 21 is a front view of the oscillating block 0.

Figure 22 is a side view of block 0.

Figure 23 is a detail showing on a larger scale some of the actuatingmechanism for theloop engaging finger V. v

Figure 24 is a plan view of guide U Figure 25 is a plan view on a largerscale of the needle plate.

Figures 26 to 29 are a series of views showing the interoperation. ofthe needles and hooks in forming the two rows of chain stitches. v

Figure 30 is a view showing the operation of a needle and hook or looperin formthe padding stitches.

Figure l is a view of a piece of cloth in which has been formed one setof .bar stitches and the two rows of padding stitches.

Figure 32 is a view showing the formation cf the bar..-stitches.

Figure 33 is 9. view showing the formazag stitches.

Figure 34 is a view of the completed button hole which my machineisdesigned to form.

igure 35 is a front elevation with the front of the casing A cut away,showing a modified form ofmy invention in which two rotating hooks areemployed instead of the oscillating hooks and aback stitch formedinstead of a chain stitch.-

Figure 36 is a side elevation of the device shown in Fig. 35, and

Figure-37 is a plan view of the rotating hooks and their immediateconnections.

A is the casing enclosing and supporting the-lower part of the machine,its top plate having formed in it the opening A in which moves theslotted lever arm K and the clamp lifting pin J, the opening A extendinginward from the front of the machine and an opening A lying within -theupright standard C. :B is the bottom plate hinged to casing A at B, B. Cis the vertical'standard secured to the casing A and supporting thehorizontal arm C and head C The parts B, B and B are open on one sideand closed by a cover plate C and the head is also open in front andclosed by the cover plate C".

D is the driving shaft of the machine having'at its end the fastandloose pulleys D D. The fast pulley D is formed on or secured to a discl)secured on shaft D in any convenient way and having a slot, D formed inits inner face with. preferably. a hard metal pin D at its end.Consequently the inner face of disc D is covered by a similarly slottedface plate (Z which is replaceable when worn by the friction of the stoplegfl to be described.

is an eccentric secured on shaft D and actuating the eccentric ringF androd F, which connectsthrough lever F with the rock shafts F the lever Fat the end of which connects through link F with the needle bar G, tothe lower end of which are secured the two needles G and G The needlebar G is held in and guided by the guide G which is formed on the. endof the lever arm G secured on the shaft- G to the other end of which issecured the lever arm G see Figs. 6 and 7, which is formed with theslide block slot G and below it with the curved end Gi'which connectsthrougha pin and slide block indicated at G with the Slotted guidewav Gof a lever (i secured to shaft G which runs the length of the machineand has secured to its other end the upright lever G connecting througha ball point (i with the transversely siid-' able shaft H to which aresecured the two loopers ll, H The described connections between theneedle bar guide and the loopcr shaft are such that the loopers areShifted from sideto side'as tne needles are similarly shifted, so thatthey are always in position the cam of such to properly engage the loopsthrown ed by the needles.

The proper engaging and disengaging motion is given. to the loopersinthe illustrated construction by oscillating the shaft H through thelever arm H secured to its end and ball H with the lever I, which isformed with an opening I" through which passes shaft D and oppositelyextending lugs I and I above and below said opening. The lever I ispivoted on shaft G and is actuated by tlie'oams D and D secured on shaftD and acting against lugs I 1 the form of the cams being such as toactuate the loopers in proper timing and relation to the working strokesof the needle and so as to en gage and disengage the loops at propertimes.

The movements of the needle bar guide and the corresponding movements ofthe looper shaft are caused by the cam on joint connected through linkshaft which through the gear 0 is actuated by gear D on shaft D. so thatshaft rotates once for each two rotations of shaft D. The cam O operatesbetween and upon the forked lower end 0 of a block 0 as shown in Figs. 7and 21: said block is .pivotallv supported by a laterally extending pin0 in a. frame hearing as shown in Fig. Land has a slide block hearing 0Fig. 21, formed in its upper portion corresponding to the similarbearing G inlever G See Figs. 7 and 9. Slide blocks N and N are locatedin the hearings in block 0 and lover G and are pivotallv sccurcd on apin N extending out from the end of a lever N". pivoted at Y on a link(3 the lower end of which is pivotally attached to a plate secured onthe top ofcasing A. The lever h is formed with a slot N in which isadjustabh secured the pivot pin n on which is pivotally secured thelink3T connected at its lower end to the cam actuated lever N pivoted onstud N. and having a cam roller N conncctci'l to it. which is acted uponby the cam N secured on shaft L. The relative positions of the cam N andcam roller N at the beginning of a button hole formingopgu'a'tiou isapproximately. as shown ,lihi/Figi 7. the roller riding on a circularportion N of radius that. acting through levcr N link N and lover X. itholds the slide block pin X in a position in which it is concentric withthe pivot O of block/0, and hence no os illating movement is imparted tolever (i .\t the starting of the machine the feeding mechanism. to be described. mo es the cloth quite: rapidl licncatli the needles and whilethe portion N of the cam is opcrative and the needles in a positionmidway I transverse travel. the long formed on each hctwlscn the extremememes a move from side to side to form a series of.

bar stitches, as shown at Y, 31, and during theformation of thesestitches-the feed mechanism holds the cloth stationary.

The cam-roller N next comes ip contact with the portion N of the campath, which is circular in form, from N to N and of such -distance fromthe center of the cam that through the connections described the.

padding stitches Y, and,'of course, the feed moving the goods beneaththe needles while they are forming the stitches Y The elevated cam pathN next coming into operation, the portion of the cam corresponding inheight to the portion N and the feed being stationary, the barstitchesshown at i button hole. After the cam roller N drops from Non to N, andbeforethe feed begins tomove the cloth a series of knot stitches areformed before the machine stops and the thread is cut preparatory to theremoval of the completedbutton hole.

It will, of course, be obvious that barring stitches may first be formedatone end of the button hole, then padding stitches followed by barringstitches at the other end of the button hole and that the two rowsof'zig zag stitches Will in such case form the-'last element of thebutton hole. Such a change in the order of the stitching in- I volves nochange in the-.forn'i of the con trolling cams.

Referring next to the feed mechanism and pants immediately associatedwith it. T is theneedle plate, best'shown in Figs: and

25, secured'to the top of casing A over the end of opening A as byscrews passing through the screw holes l 1t 1s formed with a transverseopening, ll throughwhich the needles pass and from this opening extendforwardly the slots U Uh separated by a tongue ll". These slots are forthe pur pose of permitting the thread to move i'orward to the necessaryextent in forming the long padding stitches Y. The plate IT has adownwardlv externlix i bracket U secured tending across the plate. 5 isthe cloth plate secured to plate J and having the opening J formedin itsend with serrated edges as indicated. J F ig. 5 is a slide blockpivotally supported on apin secured to the plate J and adjustable inslot J J is a lingo connection at the rear end of plate J to which ishinged the clamping lever J having pivotally connected to its outer endat J the clamp J tit-ting in slot J t and having serrated edges, asshown. A pin J extends'froin plate J through lever J and a spring'Jpresses lever J downward. As

a means of lifting lever J a downwardly extending pin J is provided,adjustab-ly connected to the lever by ascrew clamp J, the lower, end ofthe pin J being acted on by a cam to be described. The pivoted slideblock, J enters and moves 'in the slotted g'uideway of a lever K,pivoted to the frame at K, and having a cam engaging pin and roller Kextending down from it into the cam groove of cam L, which is fixed onshaft L and has its cam groove formed to give to lever K, and through itto plate J and its attachments, the described feed movements. Thus, asshown in Fig. 2, the parts are shown in position to begin the buttonhole and the sharply inclined portion L of the cam acting on cam rollerK moves the slide plate J and the'clpth clamping device attached to itrapidly forward, while the padding stitches Y are being made. Thestraight portion L of the cam next comes into operation, iolding thefeeding mechanisn'i stationary, while the bar stitches Y ing annularrims L which are engaged by clutches. adapted to impart to cam L', andshaft L a step by step rotary movement and which, as shown. in detail inFigs. 16 to 20,

consist of discs M having tongues M forn'ied at their edges, the freeends of the tongues extending: over rectangular openings M.

- Eachdisc has also a spring; abutment M on its face. Engaged with thedisc M on the left hand side of the cam-L' ,see Fig. 2. is a camactuating finger Mtg having an opening M formed in it to surround, butclear,

. shaft L. and a, turned irY end M engaged in 7 opening M M is ahole'formed in fin er M for a pin M", havinga head M. which abutsagainst stop'Mkand M is asprinp; acting to turn the fingerso thatits endM will PR S the clutch tongue-M out against the rim L, and thus couplethe disc M and care to etherp M is a pin in theend of finger of by whichit is connected to the eccentric rod E see Figs. 4:, l and 11, theeccentric strap E of which engages the eccentric E which is internallyslotted as shown at E, to permit its adjustment on shaft D, to which itis operatively' secured, as shown in Figs. 10 and 11, the eccentricbeing formed with a flange which rests against the face of a discjournalled on a projection D of a hub D secured to shaft D and having anannular flange D against which disc E abuts and in which are formedradial slots DHD The disc E isformed with cam slots E, E, into whichextend pins E screwed into flange E and extending, as shown, into slotsD". It will readily be seen that the throw of the eccentric can bechanged by turning the disc E, and a key slot E is formed in it forconvenience in so adjusting it. While the clutch M is making its reversestroke the cam L is held stationary by the similar clutch disc workingin the annular rim L on the right hand side of cam L and actuated by thefinger m, which is similar in form and attachment to finger M exceptthat its end is slotted as shown at m, and has attache-d tcit thepivoted latch m. which projects with end of the slide V, movable in theguide-' way l of slide block U, which. as already described. rests inthe slot of the bracket U and slide V is. See Fig. 2, pivotally attached at its rear end at V to the lever V pivoted at V and havingextending down from it the cam engaging pin V see Fig. 1, which entersthe cam groove of the cam indicated at D. said cam groove being soformed to thrust the lever and the finger forward at a proper time toengage the thread loops and push and hold them in the proper needleengaging position and il-ftQl-' ward to retract. after the finger hasbeen moved laterally to disengage it from the threads. The lateralmovement is given to the finger V bv the pivoted lcvcr U, see

Fig. 4. engaged by the slide block U and actuated by the cam D At thecompletion of the operation of the machine in forming a button hole themachinecomes to an automatic stop and just before themotion of themachine is arrested I provide mechanism for cutting the clothmensesbetween the lines of stitches, for pulling through the tensions acertain length of thread to facilitate the formation of the firststitches on a new button hole and for cutting the thread between theneedle and the completed bu'tton hole, and I also provide for theautomatic lifting of the clamp holding the cloth against the needleplate. The

mechanism for accomplishing allthese purposes is intimately associatedwith the stop mechanism. Referring first to the mechanism for cuttingthe cloth between the rows of stitches, F is a clutch member securedupon the oscillating shaft F and in position to be engaged by a slidingclutch member Q, which slides on this shaft, and is formed with a grooveQ, which is engaged by the upper end P of a lever P pivotall supportedon the plate 0' and 0 and un erpressure of aspring P", which tends topress it and the clutch Q in the engaging position. The lever P isformed with a perforation at P, which, when the lever is in retractedposition, engages a. pin p retractively held projecting from a lever armattached to the shaft Q, by a spring as indicated at 71 This engagementpre vents any movement of the shaft Q, while the lever P is in retractedposition. P is a rod projecting backward from the lever P and pivotallyengaged. at its far end/with the lever P extending out from the shaft P,which is rotatively held in bearings on the frame of the machine and hassecured to its lower end the adjustable collars P and P from whichprojectin opposite dihaving the depressed portion P, the camdisc beingformed with circumferential slots P P the purpose of which will behereafter described, and being permanent-1y attachcd to the shaft L. Theaction of the spring 1P holds the finger P in contact with the cam P andpermits the movement of the lever P in a direction to engage the clutchQ when the pin moves into the recess P. In order to retract the lever Pand the clutch Q from clutclrengaging position with greatrapidityI'PI'OVidQ a cam D on the shaft D which engages the pin P and rapidlyrotates the shaft P to its nor mal stationary position, andconsequently, rapidly disengagcs the clutch Q. The clutch Q hasextending from it the lever arm Q pivot-ally connected at Q, with thelink Q,

which is also pivotally engaged with the end of theilcver Q attached totheshaft Qffand to the 'ont cnd of the shaft Q is attached the lever Q7connected by-a link Q, with a knife carrying slide rod Q), which isguided in bearings in the head of the machine,

and has attached to its lower end the knife Q, and it will be observedthat the bearings for the knife carrying rod Q, are inclined forward sothat the knife can coma-do to out close to the needles. I

In order to prevent the knife from being actuated when it is desiredthat it should not act I provide arod P the inner end of which restsagainst the lever 1 and the outer end of which has a push button Pextending from the face plate C", as shown, a spring P keeping the pushbutton in nor- 10 mal outward position.

The cutting of the thread, and the stopping of the machine immediatelyafter the thread is cut is brought about by the projection L of the camL acting: against the con- 5 tact surface R o the bent lever R, which ispivoted at RR no anally held in engaged position by the action of thespring 3* and has an edge R which normall3 engages the collar R on theshaft R", which is longitudinallyslidable in its bearings in the frameof the machine and is thrust backward by the action of a spring R.movement of the shaft R is limited by the buffer stops indicated at Sand S and inv 5 the rear end of the shaft is secured the lever S havingabelt shifter S secured to its end S, and a brake stop S projectingoutwardly from the face of the lever in position, when the shaft R movesbackward to rest against the face of the disc D and to enter slot D andfinallv to some in contact with the stop pin D. indicates the belt whichis shifted from its position on the fast policy o a position on theloose pulley by the movementof shaft R. The shaft R is retracted and themachine restored to starting" position by the bell-crank-lever S S,pivoted at S and pivotally engaged with the collar 8 on the shaft R asis shown best in Figs. 1 and 2.

I provide for raising the end-R of the lever B and stoppihg the machineat will by'nieans of a rod r having a push button 1 at its outer endwith a taper point extending beneath the lever arm R, as shown in Figs.2

and 5.

The longitudinally n'iovable shaft R has secured to its front end theknife carrying bar 1,- cai'i-ying the preferably angular knife T, whichsevers the threads below the needle plate just. before the motion of themachine is arrested. Secured to the shaft it is the collar R, whichserves as an abutment for the spring R and from which extends the plateR", a portion of which extends below the lever R, which is pivoted onthe shaft R and which is nonnallg h ld in position, as shown in Figz. 5,by resting adjustable stop R against which it down bv the action of asprin inrlio so R". When the shaft R is porno: ml to move longitudinallyby the withdrawal the lever arm; R the lever arm it moves with it, firstto a position in which it lies against the face of the cam D, and thenas th s cam.

on which is secured on the shaft D by its hub d,

it sans-so The longitudinal G are cut away as indicated at g to giverotates until its lower Pil'itjll comes beneath the lever B said leverit moves further on to the top of the cam permitting the fulllongitudinal motion of the shaft ll, and, as the cam D rotates the leverll is lifted and its outer end B comes in contact with the )in J andthrough it lifts the clamp lever il from the position shown in Fig. 1 tothe elevated position shown in Fig. 13, and this motion of the clamplever 7 actinagainst a the pin W 3 held in its downward position by theaction of a spring pressing: out-he collar N which holds the stop W incontact with the top of the machine, pushes up the rear end of. thelover W adjustahly se cured tothe rod W, as indicated at W, and pivotedat V7", so that its active end W takes up the desired amount of threadto be held in reservefor restarting the ma shine, as indicated in Fig.13. Tension devices of a well known character are indicated at W, -W,and thread guides are indicated at W W WV, W" and VV".

it will be observed that the needles G and free passage to the ends ofthe loopers, and that the loopers H and H are slotted on top asindicated at It to give free passage to the needles.

My machine as illustrated is especially do signed to embody two needlesand two cooperatin loopers and give to the needles and the loopers atproper times a transversely reciprocating movement so as toforrn twolines of zig zag stitches on either side of a 99 button hole, asillustrated in 3a. T is machine is also designed to form in the cloth,at the beginning of its operation, two lines of padding stitches overwhich the zig zag stitches extend, and to form a bar at each end of thebutton hole. The way in, which the illustrated and. described mecha,nism operates to produce this resulthas been, to a large extent,indicated in the foregoing description of the drawings, but I will nowfurther describe the operation of the Ina-- chine.

When themachine comes to a stop the clamping lever l is in elevatedposition, as shown in Fig. 1.3, the threads have been out below theneedle plate and the thread pulling lever "W has drawn the proper lengthof thread through. the tensions as also indicated in Fig. 13. The clothis then shifted or, re.- placed between the cloth plate 5 and the i andthe lever 5%", T is drawn down,

. ng this shaft Pi a lo? ""totlinally the lever fl and tin and elt S" onto the fs of the shaft i so that it fliifzfs'bn from above and is drawndown by the sprin vn in and out of contact. ii 5 vi'hich holds thewiping slated so coat the the thread pulling lever W to the positionshown in Fig. 1. The shifting of the shaft R also involves the shiftingof the arm T and the thread cutter T, so that the cutter is removed fromthe operative path of the needle. The shifting of the shaft R alsopermits the lever R, under the influence of the springR to move down sothat its edge, indicated at B engages the lug R? on the shaft R andlocks it in retracted position. The starting of the machine by theaction of the belt on the fast pulley of course sets in operation themechanism for reciprocating the needles and oscillating the loopers, andat the starting of the machine the corn N is approximately in theposition shown in Fig. 7, and the cam L, which is secured t the sameshaft L as is the cam N, isapproximetely in the position shown in Fig.2. At the starting of the macho. therefore, the sharply inclined portionL of the coin L acts upon the curved lever K moving it quite rapidly tothe left, as shown in Fig. 2, an l this movement acting through theslide block J moves the plate J and the cloth plate .l and clamp Jforward, so, that the cloth is made to pass beneath the needles for adistones-equal to the length of the button hole to be formed. When thecloth is being moved beneath the needles, as described, the needles andloopers are positioned by the left hand portion N of the cam groove ofthe cam N, the position being such that the needles and loopers are incentral position and are held against lateral oscillation so that theyform the series-of padding stitches indicated at Y, Y, in Fig. 31. Theconnection between the cam N and the mechanism for shifting or guidingthe paths of the needles and loopers consists of the lever i 5 connectedby a pin and cum roller indicated at N with the cam N and connectedthrough the link I with the lever N". which lever. through its slideblock pin N". connects with the two slide blocks N and N /the block Nmoving in the slot U of the block (2, oscillutiible on its pivot pin i).ind having the forked (tii'iitlifiiillliifl end at its other end whilethe slide block N! moves in the groove G of the lever which lever isschurcd to the sliiift i as is also the needle bar guide indicatei'l :itll: and it will be ob. served that in the starting position-of thenlmhinc. 21nd ivliilithe pudding stitches being made. the pivot N forthe slide blocks concentric with the pivot l) so that no rel-stingmotion is iu'ipzirted to the neodle. lizii :Zuidc. The block i) isconstantly .i irociited on its pivot ll" by the action of ie ciini onthe shaft U. :iiu'l this Slitllt. through the gears 0" and is rotated atmenses 'iiiiii the S eed of the shaft :0. The curved end G of the leverG is connected through the lever G to the-shaft G and this shaft is inturn connected through the lever arm G with the sliding shaft H to whichthe looper-s H and H" iire iittaclied, so that any movement given to theneedle bar guid'e G will result in a corresponding movement being givento the sliding shaft H. so that. the

lo'opers will always be in positionto coact with the needles in whateverposition they may be shifted. The necessary IGCIPIOCB;

tion iii-given to the loopers by the oscillation of tb" shaft H impartedto it through the link H and the lever l by the Cams 1) and I)" on theshaft D.

l'leturning to the cams N and L onthc shaft L itv will be observed thatwhen the coin roller N rises on the elevated portion N of the cam paththe lever N and the; slide blocks supported on its pin N will be movedup in the slots G and 0 to their highest positions. The result of thisis that the oscillation of the block Q will now i ptllll tll'loscillation to the lever G, and

through it-to the shafts G and G. with the result that the needle barguide G and the looper shaft H will be moved from side to side so as toform a series of stitches such as are indicated at 'Y. Fig. 31. formingii bar at the end of the button hole.

lVhile these stitches are being formed the coin roller K of the slidelever K is in contact with e straight portion L of the cam L. so thatthe cloth plate and clamp are held stationery until the desired numberof barring stitches have been made.

The coin roller N next moves on to the W1. tion N of the cum N. with theresult that 'ing this portion of the operation the zig zag stitchesindicated at Y Y 'n Fig. 3% are formed. and while these stitches arebeing formed the cum roller K of the lever K is in contact with the longinplined portion L of the cam if. so that the work holding pinto andclamp and the cloth held between them is moved gradually backward withthe result of f i-iiiing-'the two lines of zig ziig stitches. The nextportion of the cum N to come into operation is its elevated portion N,which. through the mechanism already described. results in giving againa makiniuni movement to the needle'ber guide and loopcr Slifiili so asto form the her stitches indicated at Y izii Fi 34. and while thesestitches are licingiorincrl the com roller K of the lever l? is incontiict with ii straight portion if of in .citr'i' if so that nofeeding of the cloth ci- .rs. d lute the goods 'iol mamas are still heldstationary by a prolongation of the cam surface L the cam mile! N passesdown from the coin portion N on to the ri ht hand side portion of thecam portion h, with the result that a series of knot stitches are takenbefore the machine stoos.

he motion given to theshaft L and to the cams L and N is imparted fromthe shaft 1) and by the eccentric E adjustably secured on said shaft asdescribed in connee tion with Figs. 10 and 11, the eccentric rod Econnecting with the end M of the finger M*, the bent end M of whichenters the slot M of the clutch M, which clutch engages the annularflange L of the cam L and gives to the cam and to the shaft L a step bystep motion, the shaft being held rom any backward motion by the similarclutch Working in the annular frame on its opposite side and. actuatedby the finger m, and, as I have already pointed out, this finger m andthe clutch disc connected to it can be used for adjusting the cams L andN if any necessity for adjustment occurs.

To refer next to the operation of the tinger V, the function of thisfinger is to move forward-against the threads of the loop as the needleis retracted from the cloth and push and hold the loop threads in suchposition that when the needle makes its next Working: stroke it. willpass through the loop. While the padding stitch-es are being made themovement of the goods be-. tween the stitches draws and holds the loopsinto proper position to be engaged by the needles as shown in Fig. 30,and the finger -V' performs no useful function. but when the zig nagstitches are being'formed and the goods more in the opposite direction,the movement or" the goods between stitches tends to draw the loops outof the path of the needles and the finger V then functions as aboveexplained. After the needles have engaged the loops the finger must thenbe retracted to engage with the next succeeding loop threads, and inorder to retract it, it necessary that it should more out before itmovesbackwards. The backward and forward reciprocating movement is impartedto the finger V by the cam l) acting through the cam engaging; pin V onthe lever Y", pivoted at V, and pivotnlly connectcd at V with the slidei, on the end of which the finger V is formed. Sidcn lse movementimparted to the slide V and V by the cam D' on shaft ll acting,

the yoke at the end of the lever U, the upper end oi which is connectedwith the slide block ll supported in the bracket U? and in which theslide V rec procates.

The button hole having been completed by the mechanism described, thecam P next comes into operation, this cam bein secured on the shaft L,and when, on the rotation of this shaft, its depressed portion Pregisters with the pin 1", secured to the shaft 1, the shaft P" ispermitted to turn. in turn permitting the-lever l" (-onnecte l with itby the pin l to move under the pressure of the spring i and to 'HIOVGthe clutch member Q in the direction to engage the clutch member l? onthe shaft F The motion of the lever l disongages it "from the pin Psecured to the shaft Q, and clutch member Q, now engaged with the shaftF is' rotated by said shaft and, through its lever arm Q link Q, andlever arm Q it gives a sharp rociringniotion to the shaft Q, which,through link Q)- and knife causes the; knife, Q, to more sharplydownward and cut the cloth between the zig zag lines of stitches andthen to be retracted to its uppermost position where it comes to restand is locked in position by the engagement of the pin 1? to the lever.PR The shaft l and lever P are sharply returned to their normalposition, as shown in Fig. 1, by the action-of the cam l) on the shaft Dcoming in contact with the pin P Immediately following the cutting;- oftie cloth between the lincs oi stitches projrction if on the cam L comesin contact withthe adjustable finger R on the leyer R. with the resultthat the arm it of tbs lever is lifted so as to release the lug andpermit the sprint R- to shiit theshatt R to the right, as shown in Fig..2, this sbiftinn" motion of the shaft bringing the lever R in contactwith the side of the cam D", as shown in Fig; 5, and the cam I) revolvesuntil its lover part comcs into registry with the lever ll said leverand the shaft R.is then permitted to more still further to the rightuntil the lever B is in registry with the mm D and the stop in contactwith the disc D The eam D lifts the lever R so that its end R lifts thepin il jancl througlrit the clamping lever J and clamp J to the positionshown in Fig. 13. the upward motion of the clampinglever J lifting thepin Vi and actuating: the tin" d pulling lever id". as shown in Fig. 13,'f hen as the machine continues in operation the stopfingzer 5i" entersthe clotted portion l?" oilthe disc D and finally hrings up aga nst thestop pin U arresting the motion of the machine. As the stop moves: fromits position in Contact with the disc l into the re ess; l) the motionof the shaft it moves the lever T and the triangular knife '5" inward sothat the edges oi. the knife come in contact with the outer threads ofthe loops and sever thcm just before the motion of the machine isarrested.

its heretofore described my machine organized to make what is known as achain stitch, but my invention, inv its broader sense,

includessuch modifications as are necessary if it is desired to formlock stitches instead of chain stitches, and in Figs. 35,36 and 37 Ihave shown how my machine can be readily and simply modified to formlock stitches. In these figures H, H, is a frame pivotally supported onshaft D and having a lever arm H, H secured to it, as shown, The framehas spaced bearings H, H for the spindles H, H, to the tops of which aresecured the rotating hooks H, H which are of usual and well knownconstruction. On each spindle is secured a s iral gear H, H engaged to aspiral gear H", secured to shaft D. The lever H, H is connected by alink H. H to a lever H, H secured to rock shaft G It will be obviousthat by the device described the hook can be rotated in properly timedrelation to the movements of the needles and that the frame and hookssupported by it will be oscillated in proper relation to the movementsof the needles as in the previously described construction.

The use of the rotating hooks of course require a greater take up of thethreads, and

I provide for this by using an arm F. F", in

(ill

place of arm F which is prolonged as shown at f f and perforated for thepassage of the threads. and I provide also guide as shown at Vi, Vbetween the arm and the needle. y

The button hole cutter mechanism shown and described involves novelfeatures in vented by me and claimed in my pending application forLetters Patent, Serial No. 566,784, filed June 8, 1922. The pull offactuating mechanism described is also, I l c lieve, novel with me andforms the subject matter of claims in my application, Serial No.579.794, filed August 5, 1922. Again the button hole described and themethod of making it are also, I believe, novel with me and formsthesubject matter of my application, Serial No. 559.572, filed May 9,1992. The friction clutch described is also novel and forms the subjectmatter oi my application, Serial No. 572,136, filed July 1,

Having now described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent. is:'

1. In a sewing machine having a laterally movable needle bar andcourting stitch forming mechanism. the combination thorowith of camcontrolled mechanism for rogu lating the lateral movements of thestitchforming mechanism so that it will in COHTIGO tion with the clothfeeding mechanism pcriodically form stitches in an intermediate straightline and in zig zag lines. a cloth clamp'and cam controlled mechanismfor moving saidrloth clamp in one direction while the stitch formingdevices are in position to form a straight line of stitches and in areverse direction while the stitch form c oruses ing devices are inposition to form zig zap; stitches;

2. In a sewing machine having a laterally movable needle bar and meetingstitch forming mechanism, the combination therewith oi cam controlledmechanism for regulating, the lateral movements of the stitch formingmechanism so that it will in connection with the cloth feeding mechanismperiodically form stitches in an intermediate-straight line and inlines, a cloth clamp and cam controlled mechanism for moving said clothclamp in direction while the stitch forming devices are in. position toform a straight line of stitches and in areverse direction while thestitch forming devices are in positiont form zig zag stitches andholding said cloth clamp stationary while barring stitches are formedv3. in a sewing machine adapted to form a zig stitch, a needle bar guideso supported as to be capable of shifting its position. and that of theneedle on the machine. in combination with a loopcr also so supported asto be capable or", shitting its position in the machine so as tocorrespond with the shifting position ot the needle, controllingmechanism for n'ioving the needle bar guide and the looperssynchronously so that the looper will always be in poi'tion to co- 2 :twith the needle in forming a stitch. adjustablc means for guide andlo'ope'r. cam controlled n'ieai'is for adjusting: the shifting meansfrom a neutral position in which the needle bar guide and loopcr areheld stationary in an intcrmedt ate position to an operative position inwhich the shifting means imparts an oscillative movement to the needlebar guide and looper, a cloth feeding clamp and means for actu atingsaid clamp incliu'ling a cam whereby the clamp is moved, while theneedle guide is in its intermediate position, so as to bring about theformation or a series of padding stitches and then moved in a reversedirection while Zag stitches are formed over the padding stitches.

t. in a sewing:- macliine adapted to form a ai r zag stitch. a needlebar guide so sup ported as to be capable of shitting its posi-- tion,and that of the needle on the machine. in combination with a loopcr alsoso supported as to he capable ol' shitting its position in the machineso as in correspond with the shifting position oi the needlc.controlling mechanism for movingthe needle lm r guide and theloopcrs'.syng-hronously so that the loopcr will always be in position tocourt with the needle in forming" a stitch, adjust- ,ab lo means to!shit! in: the needle bar guide and loopcr. cam controlled moans i'oradjust: ing the shilling moans 'i'rom a neutral posi tion in which thelli'llilt bar guide and loopci', are held stationary in an intermediateposition to an operative position in which shifting the needle ban ionmamas the shifting means imparts an oscillative movementto the needlebar guide and looper, a cloth feeding clamp and means for actuating saidclamp including a cam whereby a the clamp is moved rapidly while theneedle guide is in its intermediate position so as to bring about theformation of a series of long padding stitches and then moved slowly andin u reversadirection while zi zag in stitches are formed over thepadding stitches. 5. In a sewing machine adapted to form a zi zagstitch, a needle guide secured on a vi ratory arm in combination with arock shaft to which said arm is attached, a vibratory lever arm alsoattached to said rock shaft; a looper shifting bar, a rock shai'tcarrying a lever connected to said bar, and a second lever connected tothe vibratory lever on the rock shaft connected to the needle guide, avibratory cam actuated lever actuating block, means adjustable in saidblock and in said vibratoryactuated. lever for connecting them together,a cam con trollin the adjustment of said means and throng it the motionsof the needle guide and looper bar and intermediate means for varyingthe extent but not the kind of motion. imparted by said cam.

6. In a sewing machine adapted to form a 21' g zag stitch, a needleguide secured on a vibratory arm in combination with a rock shafttowhich said arm is attached, a vibratory lever arm also attached to saidrock shaft, a looper shifting bar, a rock shaft carryinga leverconnected to said bar, and a second lever connected to the *ibrato'rylever on the rock shaft connected to the needle guide, an adjustableeccentric operated by a driving shaft, a rotatable driven shaft clutchmechanism actuated by said eccentric for giving a step bystep motion tosaid driven shaft, a cam actuated by said shaft, a vibratory block,means adjustable in said block for'irnpa'rting vibratory motion to thevibrating lever connected to the rock shaft and means actuated by thecam on the driven shaft for moving the adjustable means in the vibratoryblock and imparting movement to the needle guide and looper bar Z. in asewing machine adapted to form. a zig zag stitch, a needle guide securedon a vibratory arm in combination with a rock shaft to which said arm isattached, a vibratory lever'arm also attached to said rock shaft, alooper shifting bar, a rock shaft carrylng a lever connected to saidbar, and a second 'lever connected to the vibratory lever on the rockshaft connected to the needle guide, an adjustable eccentric operated bya driving shaft, a rotatable driven shaft, clutch mechanism actuated bysaid eccentric for giving a step by step motion to -said driven shaft, acam actuated by said shaft, 9, vibratory block, means adjustable in saidblock for imparting vibratory motion to the vibrating lever connected tothe rock shaft and adjustable means actuated by the cam on the drivenshaft for moving the adjustable means in the vibratory block! andimparting movement to the needle guide and looper bar.

8. In a sewing machine adapted to make two rows of zig zag stitches andhaving two needles and two loopers, means for vibrating them laterallyand synchronously, and

a cloth feeding clamp, the combination therewith of an ad'ustable devicefor varying the lateral mbratory motion of the needles and loopers, acam. for shifting said device to vary said movements at deternamedperiods, means for moving the clamp a-ting cam secured on the same shaftas is the vibration controlling cam and means for giving said cam shafta step bv step rotation-actuated by a driving shaft and including anadjustable eccentric on said driving shaft.

backwards? and forwards including an actu 9. In a sewing machin'cadaptedto make two rows of zig zag stitches and having'two needles and twoloopers, means for vibrating them laterally and synchronously, and

a cloth feeding clamp, the combination therewith of an adyustable devicefor varymg the lateral vibratory motion of the needles and loopers, acam for shifting saidthe extent of the step by step movements,

and a ratchet clutch.

too

ice

10. in a sewing machine adapted to form I zig zag stitches, a needle barhaving two needles secured. to it, in combination with a vibratoryneedle bar guide, a vibratory looper carrying bar having two loo-30erssecured to it, means for simultaneously vibrating the needle bar guideand looper carrying bar, including an adjustable device whereby theextent or the vibration is regulated, a cam acting to shift saidadjustable device, formed. so as to hold the needles and looper in anintermediate po sition for a portion of its movement and while two rowsof padding stitches are being formed, then to im art to them awidevibratory movement w ile a series of bar stitches are formed, thento impart to them a lesser vibratory movement while two rows of zig zagstitches are being formed, and then to impart to them a second widevibratory movement while a second series of bar stitches are beingformed,a cloth holding clamp and means for moving said clamp including acam formed to give movement to the clamp while the padding stitches arebeing formed to hold it substantially stationary while the bar stitchesare being formed and to move it gradually while the two rows of zig zagstitches are being formed, said cams for controlling the position of theneedles and loopers and for actuating the cloth clamp being organized inthe machine to move in definite relationship to each other. a

11. In a sewing machine adapted to form zig zag stitches, a needle barhaving two needles secured to it, in combination with a vibratory needlebar guide, a vibratory looper carrying bar having two loopers secured toit, means for simultaneously vibrating the needle bar guide and loopercarrying bar, including an adjustable device whereby the extent of thevibration is regu ated, a cam acting to shift said adjustable device,for-med so as to hold the needles and looperg in an intermediateposition for a portion of its movement and while two rows of paddingstitches are being formed, then to impart to them a wide vibratorymovement while a series of bar stitches are formed, then to impart tothem a lesser vicluding a cam formed to give movement to the clamp whilethe padding stitches are being -formed to hold it sul'istantiallystationary while the bar stitches are being formed to move it graduallywhile the two rows of zig zag stitches are being formed and to hold itsubstantially stationary while the second set of bar stitches are beingformed, said cams for controlling the position of the needles andlOOIJ'EIiZ and for actuating the cloth clamp being organized in themachine to move in definite relationship to each other, a threadpositioning finger longitudinally and laterally movable beneath theneedle plate.v and "loans for actuating said finger whereby it is movedfor ward against the loop threaz'ls is the needles are retracted andmaintained in such position while the needles move down Ihrough theloops and then moved laterally to withdraw itfrom the loops and then rtractmt l2. in a sewing: machine adapted to Torin adouble row of zip:73a; stitches and having thread cutting mechanism operative at the endof the stitch forming op ration as dos ril'icd, a. thread pulling lcvcroperating to draw through the tension devices a lc'; 2tl1 of thread tobe available on restarting the machine. a hinged cloth clamp carryinglcver arranged when raised to actuate the thread pulling levcr, andmechanism actuated as the; stitch forming mechanism comadapted tocontact pletes its operation to raise said clamp carrying lever and tolower it again to clamping position when the machine is restarted.

13. In a sewing machine adapted to form a double row of Zig zag stitchesas described, mechanism for stopping the machine comprisin a. recesseddisc secured on the driving shaft, in combination with a longitudinallymovable bar spring actuated to move it toward the disc having a detentlug secured to it for he in it in retracted position, a belt shiftingarm secured to the bar and carrying a stop finger adapted to contactwith the disc and enter the recess therein, a latch lever adapted toengage the detent lug, and means for moving said lever to disengage thelug moving in definite relation to the stitch forming mechanism and soas to release the stop finger carrying bar as the intended stitches arecompleted permitting the stop finger first to co act with the disc andthen to enter the recess therein as described, I

14. In a sewing machine adapted to form a double row of zig zag stitchesas described, mechanism for stopping the machine comprising a recesseddisc secured on thedrivin shaft, in combination with a longitudihillymovable bar spring actuated to move it toward the disc and having adetent lug secured to it for holding it in retracted position, a beltshifting arm secured to the bar and carrying a stop finger adapted tocontact with the disc and enter the recess therein, a latch leveradapted to engage the detent lag, and means for moving said lever todisengage the lug moving in definite relation to the stitch formingmechanism. and so as to release the stop finger carrying bar as theintended stitches are completed permitting the stop finger first tocontact with the disc and then to enter the recess therein as described,an arm secured. to the longitudh nal'ly movable bar at its front end.and a thread cutting knife secured to said arm and operating to cut thethreads when the stop finger enters the recess in the disc afore said.

15. In a sewing machine adapted to form a double row of zig zap;stitches as described, mechanism for stopping the machine comprising arecessed disc secured on the drivin; shai'l. in combination with alongitudinally movable bar spring actuated to more it toward the discand having a tie lent lug scci'n'cd to it for holding it in retractedposition, a belt shifting arm secured to the bar and carnving a stopfinger "ith the disc and enter the recess therein, a latch lever adaptedto engage the detent lag. and means for moving; said lever moving indefinite relation to the stitch forming mechanism and so as to releasethe stop finger carrying bar as the intended llO to disengage the lug'longitudinally a double row of zig zag it toward the disc and memesstitches. re completed permitting the stop finger fi st to contact withthe disc and then to enter the recess therein as described, a. clampraising lever also secured to the movable'bar and moving with it and acam for raising said lever to actuate the clamp over which'the lever ismoved when the bar is shifted rearward.

16. In a sewing machine adapted to form stitches as described, mechanismfor stogpmg the machine comrising a recessed isc secured on the movehaving adetent lug secured to it for holding it in retracted position, abelt shifting arm secured to the bar and carrying a stop finger adaptedto contact with the na 1y movable bar spring actuated to said lever todisefinite relation to mechanism and so as to nger carrying bar as thelug, and means for moving1 engage the lug moving in the stitch forminrelease the stop driv- 1n shaft, in combination with a longitudidisc andenter the recess therein, a latch lever adapted to engage the detentintended stitches are completed permitting the stop finger first tocontact with the disc and then to enter the recess therein as described,a clamp raising lever also secured to the longitudinally movable bar andmoving with it and a cam for raisingsaid level. to actuatethe clamp overwhich the lever is moved when the bar is shifted rearward, said camfirst serving as a stop acting on the belt shifting he through the clampraising ever.

17. A chainstitch sewing machine adapted to form zig Z5, stitches havingin ombination two rock shafts located respectively in the upper; andlower positions of the machine, means for actuating said shafts snchronously, a needle bar guide secured to t e up errock shaft, a loopershaft longitudina lv movable in its hearings and a lever attached nectedto the looper shaft to reciprocate it in synchronism with the needle barguide.

MICHAEL MoOANN.

to the. lower rock shaft and con

